Head right when on first ledge to anchors up to the right.

Tour Guide Barbie

Wheezy

Squeaky Toy Aliens

Bullseye

Buzz

Mutant Toy

Mr Potato Head

To Infinity and Beyond

Stinky Pete

Barrel of Monkeys

Woody / Rappel Station

Star Command

Emperor Zurg

I am not a Toy!

Sarge

Psycho Sid

Clip the first bolt to the left (shared with "I am not a Toy!") with a 2' sling.  Clip next two bolts directly up and to the right.  Finish at anchor shared with "I am not a Toy!"

Just 3-4 feet left of Woody, sustained crimpy face climbing with 2 tricky cruxes.  5 bolts - stick clip the first or just boulder up to the first bolt. Climb straight up the bolt line, avoiding any side pulling on the cracks left (To Infinity and Beyond) and cracks and corners right (Woody).  The two-bolt anchor at the top can easily be reached to set up a TR by down climbing to the Woody /Rappel Station anchor, anchoring in then reaching around the corner.

A very easy boulder-like start on hanging blocks and a few flakes leads to what seems more characteristic of the Quarry. After the overhanging start, head up horizontal cracks straight up to a comfortable ledge and the fixed anchor.

Start under a left facing/arching corner going halfway up.  Find the "Horn of Plenty" at the top of the left side of the arch then straight up the second half using cracks in the face to a large ledge with an anchor. The blue line from Carter Ley's photo is actually the original route.  The red line is a variation that shares the same start as Star Command.

A thin crack leads up to a ledge in the middle of the wall under a small alcove with several horizontals and small edges in the crack possible as holds. Climb up from the ledge to the anchor.

At 16ft, it is outdone in length than many bouldering routes, and is short even relative to other routes this cliff.Two variations for the start. The rightmost is Mrs Potato Head (5.3), which climbs up a large blocky crack just left of an easy series of horizontals and blocky steps. The standard starts on thin holds which works up a small crack with a few horizontals after the opening moves, then up a slot to the left of the fixed anchor.

Mixed climb. Crux is getting up the blank smooth face of the lower half.  Can't use the crack of "Sarge" that is left of the climb, but the smaller left arching finger crack (shared with Sarge) is in.  Stick clip the first bolt.  Balancy, reachy and strong crimpy moves!  Get after it!  Second half is trad climbing the face between the two upper cracks.

As per Adirondack Rock, "a good introduction to the area." Pretty easy and featured enough for an intro to climbing.Start just right of an obvious chimney which marks the left end of the wall, or around the corner to the right up the face with great horizontals. Good holds all the way.  Stay off the left side of the chimney and left face - loose and dangerous unmaintained rock!

Go up right facing corner/crack just left of overhanging area with jammed blocks.  Continue up the shallow crack & small right facing corner to a large ledge at the top with the anchor on the left inside edge.  Set up the belayers rope in the higher anchor to act as a directional to keep the rope from sharing the crack with the climber's rope - helps prevent the ropes being pinched in the tight parts of the crack.  The anchors can be used to rappel from - but involves a exposed third class 5' descent down a few big blocky steps to a big ledge.  Beginners may choose to descend a safety line tied to a tree or be belayed in to access the rappel. This ledge  - shared with Squeeky Toy Aliens is a great staging area for photographing.

Great trad climb using small to medium gear.  Offset cam or Alien comes in handy at small flared crack about halfway up - otherwise PG13.

Mixed climb.  Fingerlock crux up the thin vertical seam past a single bolt on the left to a jug/smear combo to the second half which then takes good gear.

10a crux right off the deck through the small roof chest high through the crimpy face up to the first bolt. Stick clip or have a spotter.  Clip a total of 4 bolts to the anchor.

A good mixed route, a pleasant climb and easy to set up, no rappel required. Start on thin holds - clip the only bolt - after climbing up a short ledge, onto a black face working up and right from the start, then onto a ledge and up the easier orange colored overhanging blocks to a fixed anchor

25' to the right of Barrel of Monkeys, look up for a series of small cracks below a fixed anchor (the second anchor set from the left). Start at a series of square-ish holds up to a pair of cruxy thin cracks, then up to horizontal blocks, through some seams to a ledge with a fixed anchor above your head.An alternative start uses the left-facing corner to the right of this route (the lower half of Buzz), which climbs through the corner to a jug, then up and joining the route as usual (5.6+)Or climb the smooth face to the right of this route with the use of a horizontal for a 5.10d toprope climb, called "Stinky Pete" (FA Peter Whitmore, April 2009)

Up thin crack to ledge then climb broken face to anchors.

A small toprope/trad/sport climbing spot in an abandoned quarry. Shady climbing on shorter routes with a convenient and flat base area only 2 minutes from the road.  Great place to practice, teach and bring programs.  The first 9 climbs can easily be top-roped by simply reaching the anchors from above (carefully laying down or stepping down on a safety leash for Woody & Squeeky Toy Aliens) and feed the rope through.  Others can also be top-roped but must rappel in to set them up.  Local climbing ethic at this crag is to use steel chain anchors with quick-links or steel biners for top-roping. They are bomber and are inspected annually for wear and are cheap enough to replace - go ahead and use them (no need to set up your own anchors)."The Whole Toy Box Traverse"  - If you have the place to yourself and want to practice multi-pitch anchor building and traversing trad techniques go part way up and traverse the whole thing from Mr. Potato Head to Sarge setting hanging anchors or at good stances as often as you want then go higher and repeat the whole process again with a higher line going back the opposite direction.  If you want solitude during the summer months avoid climbing here on Fridays when local camps heavily use this area.

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Protection

Routes in Lake Pleasant Quarry