Chicago's West Side

is immediately east of

The Kitchen

, just inside the gate. It is the west-facing wall on the same formation as

Chicago Overhang

. (It isn't really on what I'd consider the same formation as

The Kitchen

, but is covered under

The Kitchen

in the Ruckman guide).

The route is fairly easy climbing on large edges; it can be made a little more challenging by going straight up the smooth surfaces, or by staying on the arete.

It requires 15-18 feet of extension from the anchor bolts to get the anchor point over the edge for a slingshot top rope.

Chicago's West Side

Left Corner

Chicago Overhang

Double Jam

Panic City

Mark's Corner

Mr Numbers

Right Corner

Overhanging, bouldery start to an overhanging, broken pumpfest.

The first part of the route is essentially a slippery, slightly  overhanging boulder problem to a tiny ledge. It can be made a little easier by staying to the left. The second section is an overhanging bulge with jugs to help out. After the bulge the rest is easy.

It is described in the Ruckman guide as "the classic Rock Canyon sandbag."

It requires a fair amount of extension from the bolts to get the anchor point over the edge where a top rope won't rub excessively, so bring some 1 inch webbing or static rope.

A route not to be overlooked, practice your hand jam and lieback moves up the left corner of

The Kitchen

.

As you stand looking south at

The Kitchen

,

Double Jam

is the obvious parallel cracks that sit directly in the middle of the wall.

The route starts easy, but as you begin to jam the parallel cracks it becomes overhung requiring you to get a solid jam in order to make upward progress. Without good crack technique this climb quickly becomes an overhung 5.10.

Easy climbing to the first bolt. Follow the right edge using some face holds.

For a 5.12a/b variation avoid using the right edge at all.

A little jamming, face climbing, and stemming up the left corner of

The Kitchen

.

Slopey, greasy holds get you past the first bolt. This is an eliminate problem- you are not allowed to stem off the left wall or grab the right arete. Slightly overhung, this route requires that you have good feet.

If your looking for a quick easy romp up a crag to impress your next date than this is the route for you.

Look for the easy foot holds on the right face and use the nice hand holds found on the left face. Just keep looking for the holds, they are there. If you're new to climbing this makes an impressive-looking 5.6 route that you can show all your friends. If you are more experienced then use this as a warm up to

Mr Numbers

or

Panic City

.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Kitchen