The Void goes out the left-center part of the cave. Start one move in on

Air Loopis

on a good low rail. Now cross right hand into the upside down dish/pocket on

Pop Goes The Weasel

. From here, move your feet, and make a big and very hard cross to an extremely small three finger pocket that you crimp. This hold is kind of in the middle of nowhere, so it’s easy to find. Now unwind with your right hand to the small credit card crimp that is used on

Center Route

and is an obvious, downward-facing hold. Move your feet, and do a huge move with your left hand to a little gaston slot a couple inches up and right that is in the same rail/crack system as

Center Route’s

big sloper is. It is a fairly positive hold. Now do an easy reach to the deck of cards hold that is the finish for

Center Route

, and match that. Drop off.

This is still a project and is a contrivance but a good one. I would say the grade is anywhere between low V13 to V14. It has really small holds and requires lots of power on this rig.

The Void

Revlon

Three-Quarter Otis

Full Wisdom aka Wisdom Simulator

Buttery Justice

Tendonitis Traverse

Keeping Up With The Joneses

Missile

Extra Otis

Cytogrinder

Grape Ape

Kwajh aka. Troll

Nuclear Warhead

Helicopter

Crank Like an Egyptian aka.C.P.R.

Air Loopis

Upper Wisdom

Clear the Runway!

Miss Clairol

Helicopter Direct Start

Air Jordan

Death by Drowning

McTwist

Pressure Sensitive

Pop Goes The Weasel

Center Route

Government Issue

Midnight Express (aka CJMD)

Magic Johnson

Breashears' Crack

Start

CPR

. Left hand to sloper below the

CPR

crimp.  Right hand to left side of the potato peeler. Left hand to a sloper, triangular block. Right hand to

Center Route

undercling. Finish

Center Route

. Control horn.

This is very contrived, but it still provides fun and has difficult full expansion compression climbing. Be sure to make use of all possible toe cams, and hooks.

Revlon is a slightly more difficult variation to Helicopter.  It is an interesting problem that requires long, static moves and good body tension.As with many Morrison problems, it's best to have someone tell you exactly where the holds are.  Revlon is an eliminate, meaning not everything is on.  Nonetheless, this brief description with the picture should suffice.Begin with the same holds as Heli., however, instead of tossing up left, cross up with your right to a sloper with a thumb catch.  Good footwork allows you to go up left to a triangle hold, and then right again to a small crimper slot.  High step and get your left hand into the lower section of the overhead, diagonal crack.  Get a right hand undercling, throw in  the kneebar, and finish

Helicopter

.  There is a harder, but very similar version to Revlon called Clairol, at V7.

Start as for

Breashears Crack

/

Cytogrinder

/Loopis, and traverse left to the top of

Upper Wisdom

, climbing through the

Wisdom

crux or

Pressure Sensitive

on the way. This is just Otis without the initial mini-crux of

Tendonitis Traverse

.

This is hard to grade as a boulder, but it is probably 13b if you do the

Wisdom

crux (V7) or 13c if you do

Pressure Sensitive

(V8).

Full Wisdom is a classic endurance testpiece at Morrison.  The problem starts under at the far right of the Black Hole, (under the leaning rock) and it traverses up the rock on the overhanging traverse above the Black Hole. Begin on a big hold and move up on easy rock (jugs) until you will find the obvious crux.... A wicked section with a pissy little crimper that will work you. Crank through this section and finish what is known as

Upper Wisdom

. If you wish, you can start above this crimper crux for the V3 version

Upper Wisdom

. This is a classic problem and a good challenge.

Tendonitis traverse begins a few yards to the right side of the Black Hole.  Get on at the rightmost end of a long horizontal crack.  Traverse this crack to the jug at the lip of

Breashears' Crack

.  This is typically how the problem is done.  However, some insist on beginning just below the right end of the crack, on a horizontal sloper.  A campus move gets you into the crack and on your way.  Additionally,

Breashears' Crack

is often downclimbed to complete the climb.  With bad feet and powerful crimps, this problem certainly lives up to its name.  The climbing does ease off considerably after the first few moves, until a somewhat thuggish throw to jugs.  Perhaps it's not a two star route by itself, however, like Helicopter, it opens the door to a number of very hard linkups such as Taxi Driver (V10) and Otis (V11).

Variation of center route (for people who don't like the crimps).  Start as

Cytogrinder

, but after the second move, bust left to a slopey undercling (LH), and bump your way through the slopey right hand sidepull (RH) to the deck o'cards (RH) just above the lip.

Missile is one of the classic independent lines at Morrison.  It is an old problem that is reminescent of Helicopter and is another of my favorite problems at Morrison.  The way to find it is to start in the Black Hole, and head uphill under the large boulder that leans on the left side of the Hole.  This is the Wisdom area.  Walk half way up the sloping rock to a small corner that has some great jugs at the sit down start.(the start of upper wisdom)

Start on these jugs, toss up with the right hand onto the sloping rail three feet from the start holds.  Now, find a good heel hook for the left and move the left hand out to a small crimper.  Switch to a right toe jam and move the right hand onto the sloping arete hold with lots of chalk on it.  This hold sucks, and you really have to find a sweet spot.  Now the fun begins, toe in well, get some courage and toss out left to the flat face / sloper.  Stick this, do some trick moves with the feet, and toss again up right to a small crimper intermediate.  Immediately toss again with the right to the finishing jug.

More like a route than a boulder problem, Extra Otis traverses the entire Black Hole from right to left.

Start on the jug at the far right end of the Black Hole.  Downclimb into the

Tendinitis Traverse

, reverse the Breashear's Crack, and then continue left across the Black Hole using any holds to reach a good kneebar rest just before the

Wisdom Simulator

.  Once you have recovered, make a reachy move to gain the starting holds of the

Wisdom Simulator

, and then grunt your way through a crimpy, body tension crux to easier, yet surprisingly pumpy terrain that ends when you reach a horizontal crack at the left end of the wall.

Although this traverse isn't much to look at, it's got awesome moves, and provides a great challenge.  Plus, besides the initial downclimbing, Extra Otis can be safely worked without a spotter.

Cytogrinder tackles the middle of the Black Hole, diverging just right of

Center Route

.  Begin matched in the large hole at the bottom.  Move up into a chipped (?), grinding two finger pocket, and up to a right sloper.  Move up and right to one more sloper and pop to the top rail.

Breashears' Crack

to the right is off for your feet, otherwise it's one of the few open lines at Morrison.

The great thing about this problem is the intricate variety of beta one can find (and needs) to succeed.  I count some 19 hand or foot movements the way I do it.  Save some gusto for the last move to the lip, which tends to shut people down.  Be aware of guys in their 50's and 60's who seemingly use the hardest beta possible and yet warm up on this problem.  I'd give it three, but it probably only deserves two.

Start Grape Ape from the Heli. Dir. Start holds. Go up with the L. hand past the usual rail, to the large two-sided hold used in the original

Helicopter

line (a long stretch close to 6'). Work the feet, bring right hand up to the pyramid shaped hold along the lower rail, cross over with the left hand to the next hold on the lower rail. Feet again, then shoot up to the triangular pinch with the right hand. Get established, then move the L. hand to the large undercling slot just right of the lower rail (left of the

Center Route

pinch). Set up on the pinch, and undercling, then hit the lip with your right hand to finish. Very core intensive, and a positive ape index helps.

Begin Kwajh at the bottom of the direct start to

Helicopter

. Set up with two underclings right of the start of

Death by Drowning

. Go up with the left to the "crimp" on

Death

, and up with the right to a flat/small 4" sloper. Left hand to the lower

Helicopter

rail, right hand to the triangle pinch. Left hand to upper

Helicopter

hold, then right hand to the top. This line presents a "straight line" out the left side of the Black Hole.

Climb

Full Wisdom

until you reach the start jugs of

Pressure Sensitive

before the crux of

Full Wisdom

, climb

Pressure Sensitive

into

Missile

, then finish on

Upper Wisdom

. You can climb the high variation of

Upper Wisdom

(above the crux) - this is the natural line when starting from the top of

Missile

. Alternatively, you can downclimb into the crux of

Upper Wisdom

for a bit more difficulty.

This is the ultra classic of Morrison and the doorway to nearly all the hard routes in the Black Hole.  This may be the hardest V5 that you will ever work and packs more beta into 12 feet of climbing than most other problems I know!!!

This is nearly impossible to describe, however, ask anyone that climbs at Morrison, and they will be able to give you a better idea.  The original version starts on the left side of the Black Hole on a jug, and traverses into the sloping crux of Copter.  Most people, however, opt for the following version: start sitting down with your left hand in a small pocket and your right on a miserable open hand hold.  From here, toss with the left up to the flat face.  Some nice foot beta will allow you move the right hand up to a sloping hold.  A series of balancy and technical foot movements allows you to move the hands up, eventually to the sloping rail.  From here, pull up, lock off and reach up with the left hand to a sloper in a crack. Some different foot variations allow you to do the final scary throw out right to a hidden hold, and follow this with another bump to the final hand jam hold and you are all finished.  Of course, if you blow the last move you will discover how the problem gets it name.  Consider a crash pad and spotter for this move.

This line starts slightly right of Flaming Arrow (Heli. Dir. Start). Use the same holds as

Kwajh

to start (L. hand on "toe Hook" hold, and right on a rounded undercling). Shoot up with the left to the crimp also used on

Death By Drowning

, situate the feet (find the drop-knee for R.foot), bring the right hand up to the lower Helicopter rail. Cut loose with both feet, and go left hand to upper 'copter rail, and finish. V7+ without toe hook and undercling. Bottom to top in 4-moves.

Air Loopis is described as one of the benchmark V8s to define the grade.  It is more of an endurance problem, but does pack a powerful punch right off the blocks.  This is my personal favorite of Morrison.

Start on the big jugs at the bottom of the hole as for

Breashears Crack

and traverse left to the start of

Helicopter

.  This is the crux of the route and involves some weird leg positions and really bad hands. Once you fire through this tough section, take a big breath and cruise up Helicopter (which of course you will have completely wired before trying this route).  At the top of

Helicopter

, take a big rest on the bomber hand jams before traversing right across the lip of the Black Hole.  Stay on the edge and out of the big crack towards the back of the shelf for the route to count. (Remember, this is Morrison!)  This final traverse puts you at the top of

Breashears Crack

, which you now merely downclimb back to your starting holds, thus completing the Loop.  If you think you are truly tough, do a second loop without getting down.  It has been done, but not often!  Enjoy.

Start about 6 ft. to the left of

Full Wisdom

past the slopey rails, on a juggy rail.  It then follows the same route as

Full Wisdom

to the finish.

A long dyno followed by another long dyno, finishing with a good hard press!! After doing the first moves on

Breashears

(left hand crossed over the right), dyno right hand to the diagonal slot that people usually go to after the 2nd cross on

Breashears

. Now...no matchy matchy...go left hand to the Going to the Airport hold on the arete above. Again no match, bring the right hand to the finish hold on the Airport/

Air Jordan lines

.

Ms. Clairol is yet another

Helicopter

variation, but a really good one. Same start for

Helicopter

, but instead of going to the left hand with the thumb catch, go to the sloper down and left, in the v-slot. Right hand goes straight above the left on the point, then without matching your hands get the feet up and do a big lock-off to the rail just down and left of the normal

Helicopter

rail. Get the good pinch undercling with your right, bump the left hand to the

Helicopter

rail, and finish on

Helicopter

.

This is a variation of

Helicopter

and also the start of some of the hard Helicopter eliminates such as

CPR

,

Pop Goes the Weasel

, and

Grape Ape

. This is also the version of

Helicopter

used in

Air Loopis

. Hopefully this will help clarify some of the descriptions of these problems.

Begin with your left hand on a good undercling (the "toe-hook hold" for the typical

Helicopter

beta) and with your right hand on a "circular" undercling up and right of your left hand. Pull on, and slap up and left to a set of dish-like slopers. Then, get your feet sorted, match, and do some traversing moves into the top half of

Helicopter

.

I would say that this is maybe a half-grade harder than the typical

Helicopter

start (

i.e.

the Flaming Arrow start).

Air Jordan starts directly below the finish of

Tendonitis Traverse

, and right of the

Breashears' Crack

.  Look for two small underclings, and a super small downward crimp.  Start with the left on the better undercling, and right hand on the small crimp.  Work out the foot beta for the toss up to the rail with the right hand.  There is a sweet spot here that makes the move feel better.Then traverse left to a crimper (left hand) but you don't get to use the big jug that is two inches to the left (sorry).  Paste your feet on something, and dyno with the left hand up to the well chalked sloper on the smooth face.  Immediately get your feet up on the rail, and move your right hand to the opposing sloper with the thumb catch.  Pull up, and toss with the right hand for a big crack way up high.  Toss for all you are worth, as falling here will not be fun.

This is a very cool route, and once the body position is worked out makes for a great problem.

Death by Drowning is an eliminate version of

Helicopter

that would get three stars except for the "rules" of the route.

Start as for

Helicopter

and go through the first two hand holds on

Copter

.  Now, cross with your left hand to a sick, small, sharp left hand crimp that you can only get 1 1/2 fingers on.  From here, toss with the right hand all the way up to the good rail.  This is usually done with either a left heel hook, or a big dyno. Without matching your left hand, pull up, lock off and go up to the upper rail sloper with the left hand.  The finish is as for Helicopter, except that you are not allowed to use the undercling for your right hand, stay on top of the right hand rail. Go from here to the final throw of

Copter

and you are home free.

This is another of my favorites at the Black Hole, although it may take a while to get all the moves dialed.  It is a bit more desperate and exciting than Helicopter.  Have fun....

Start with

Breshears

and follow it up a little ways until you reach the hold one move below the nice big underclings.  From here move out left into a two finger pocket.  Dyno up to a sloper with your right hand and then catch the undercling under it with your left hand.  Suck up tight and throw with your right out to the lip.  Honk the horn and your finished.

Pressure sensitive is a variation on

Full Wisdom

that takes the word "sloper" to the full extent of the meaning.  Climb wisdom until you find the obvious transition to the upper sloping rail covered with chalked hand smears (above and skipping the crimper crux of wisdom). Commit to the slippery slopes and use as much body tension as you can muster.  Finish this sloping section and then do upper wisdom.  If you want a harder finish, try doing

Missile

as an alternate finsih to this one!  This is a super problem that is not often sent.  Unique and technical!!

Another convoluted variation to Helicopter, but a sweet route none-the-less.  Start off a side pull and undercling right of the usual start for Copter. The route moves up to a pair of sloping dish like holds.  Milk these holds, work out the feet and toss to the upper rail.  Finish as for Copter without the undercling for the final moves.  Overall a tough route, requiring lots of body tension, that threatens to spit you off throughout the route. Probably soft for V9, but that is what I have always been told.

Center Route is one of the harder lines in the Black Hole and is a stellar independent line up the center of the cave (hence the name).  Start as for

Cytogrinder

, and use either the sickenly sharp "potatoe peeler" crimper, or the pocket of cytogrinder to move to a small undercling. From here a couple of left hand moves position you for the final toss to the "deck of cards" hold at the lip.  Sustained and difficult movement best describe this line, requiring both power and technique.  A great testpiece for the aspiring V10 boulderer.

Climb the

Tendonitis Traverse

into

Breashears' Crack

, downclimb

Breashears' Crack

, then cop a rest and climb

Cytogrinder

.

A very nice boulder problem, that is easier for the compact climbers. Start at the horizontal edge at the beginning of

Tendonitis Traverse

. Go up 12" with the left hand to

Tendonitis

, then up right hand to a hold with a little "roof" over it. Figure out really gnarly feet, throw to the sloping lip of the roof out left (there is a vertical feature in the middle of this hold), and up to the apex with the right hand. Classic.

This is a fun, yet contrived variation to

Air Jordan

.  As if the first toss on aj couldn't get more awkward, start matched on the Tendonitis start hold, then go left to the starting undercling on aj, set the feet up and toss to the big hold on the rail (the hold you make the first toss to in

Air Jordan

).  Be careful not to rip a finger off on this move.  After that, finish out

Air Jordan

.

This is the easiest problem in the Black Hole. Start in the center of the Hole on some huge jugs a few feet off the ground. Traverse right in huge pockets until you reach the obvious jug line going up and slightly to the right. Make a few moves to gain hand holds on a ledge. The final hold is a few feet higher and to the left.

Downclimb the ascent route.

This is a popular warm-up for any other climb in the area.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Black Hole