Fool's Rush climbs a series of corners to the right of the Maiden Buttress. Follow the corner system over flakey and blocky rock to an overhang. Pass the overhang on the left and belay below another overhang. Turn the overhang on the right and continue up broken rock to a nice ledge on the right. Move up and left to join White Maiden's Walkaway for the final pitch.

Fool's Rush

One Nut Willie

Maiden Voyage

Warm Fuzzies

Zuma

Maiden Heaven

The Illegitimate

The Z Crack

Zeno's Paradox

Looking Backward

Stinger

Iron Maiden

White Maiden's Walkway

This two pitch climb is on the right side of the Maiden Buttress.  Scrambling and some easy fifth class rock take you up to the base of the climb.  On pitch 1 (5.10a), a steep finger and hand crack leads up to a short, splitter 5.10 thin finger crack.  A very thin, right-facing lieback above is the crux.  Pitch 2 (5.9) is a hand to offwidth crack in the back of a flared chimney.

Begin 50 feet up the gully from Stinger at the base of the deep chimney that leads to the crest of the Lower Maiden Buttress.

Climb the corner/crack via overhanging liebacking (11d) and stemming (11b) past 2 bolts. At the top of the corner move right (11-) past a third bolt, then climb directly up the face, where you'll encounter a scary mantle (10b) well above the bolt. Tops out on a big, flat ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.

Begin 20 feet right of Maiden Heaven at a small lieback/undercling flake. Climb the slab past 5 bolts up to a corner (#2 camalot).

From here you can end the pitch at a ledge a bit higher (1 to 3 inch CDs for an anchor/TR rig) and downclimb off to the right (5.0) -or- traverse up and left from the start of the corner (5.7 PG ) to a sixth bolt, then climb up and left following the arete, clipping the final 4 bolts of Maiden Heaven.

This makes for a great, long (150 ft) slab pitch with ten bolts total (gear anchor).

A short downclimb leads to a tree you can rap from (80 ft.)

A variation pitch approached via White Maiden or Illegitimate. From WM it's a tricky turn around a corner into a nice layback, then step left again for a splitter finger crack. Finish by moving right onto a 8in deep ledge, then straight up or right to a belay on WM. Some nasty loose blocks to reach WM, be careful.

The approach from Illegitimate goes straight up into it but it harder to protect.

Also, careful on the approach from WM, there's a very large hollow flake, ok to climb on but don't place in it. I climbed higher than the traverse into the corner and placed a piece above the hollow flake (next to a fixed cam) and then down climbed back to the leftward traverse.

This route follows the steep crack system on the lower right side of the Maiden Buttress, facing Lunch Rock.

To begin, scramble up class 4 to a belay at the base of the wall. Traverse left, then power over a bulge to the baffling crux.

Rappel 80 feet from a 2-bolt anchor.

This is a full pitch of thin face climbing, with good protection.  The hard parts are more of a mental than a physical challenge.  Rappel 80 feet from a nearby tree.

This route lies at the junction between the Northwest Recess and the Maiden Buttress.  It starts with a left-slanting hand crack (5.8).   You can shorten the length of the first pitch by scrambling up along the easy part of this crack and setting up a hanging belay.  Pitch 2 is the crux, and is quite sustained.  It involves face climbing past several sections of the crack (some 5.9) and then an exit right (not obvious) around the corner and down to a belay.  A 5.8 pitch takes you to the junction with White Maidens Walkaway.

Almost never done, The Z Crack pines for attention from those who want to plumb some of Tahquitz's hidden gems.  It is also a great way to get the blood pumping for the layback of Zeno's Paradox.

The Z Crack is recognized by the distinctive dogleg crack on the left wall of the Maiden Buttress.  It starts at about the same height of The Long Climb. Climb up to the small alcove before the right jog in the crack, passing an interesting finger lock or two.  Eyeball as much of the crack to come as you can, as the next stretch is pumpy, with glossy feet and hard to read pro.  A few tricky rests can be found.  Once to the end of this section, pro must be chosen carefully and extended well.  Move right around a flake, clipping the upwardly driven pin (offer a prayer to the gods of your choice that whoever of the FA crowd put the thing in wielded a skillful hammer).  Do the crux, which involves a long move to somewhat less than solid rock, which eases considerably in a few pulls.   Belay where the pitch joins The Illegitimate.

From here either continue to the top on The Illegitimate or Zeno's Paradox.

This route can be reached from the first pitch of

The Illegitimate

(5.9). Exit right from the belay to reach a large and green lichen covered flake (10c). Climb the flake up through a small roof and onto a steep face (10d). Some slabby moves will lead you up past two bolts (3/8") and then finish on a short section of the

The Illegitimate

for a belay at a large pine tree.

Start 50 feet up the gully from Zuma. Crack an overhanging bulge (11+) past 2 bolts to face climbing (10+) up to a thin crack. Finger jamming (10b) takes you top the top.

2-bolt anchor. 80-foot rappel.

Route is on the White Maiden Apron's left side.  Climb up a bolt protected slab (the crux) and then pull an awesome looking roof.  Then pull another roof!

This is a long, varied route up a buttress.  From Lunch Rock, you can see the buttress to your left.  The buttress is sharp in the lower third, up to the flat top of a large rock tooth, and rounded above that.   Start on the left side of the buttress and climb up to reach the skyline near the top of the rock tooth.  From here, go up, left around an exposed corner, up for a pitch of 4th class, and then back right on a ramp to a belay below the final pitch.  The last pitch follows an exposed fingertip traverse to the right, and then goes up on 4th class friction to the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (e) Maiden Buttress