Mostly fun tight fingers in a right-facing corner. Climb ten feet up to a bolt then transfer into the corner.

Death Bed Sex

Scrunch

Alienation

Unknown

Chest Full of Kind

Elation

Evacuation

Calibration

Lifer

Bruce Lee as FUCK

Captain Crunchbot

Bioturbation

Biomass

Jack-O-Lation

Captian Kangaroo

Unnamed 5.11

Acid Rain

Just the Tips

Cups

Lee-Tardation

Aeon Flux

Chalking Up Rails

Unnamed (#11 in new Creek Freak guide)

This left-facing dihedral of excellent varnish varies between fingers and thin-hands with some face features until about 2/3 height, then it pinches down to less than tips, but has flared pods and face features that allow for strenuous laybacking/stemming to a good lock or crimp stance at the chains.

The gear is small and fiddly up top, but the rock is very good and there's good gear a short way below. Punch it!

Atypical creek climbing.  Book calls it 5.12.  Get up on a ledge, clip a bolt.  Pull bouldery moves, clip another bolt, more liebacking then reach for the first tips lock.  Finger cams after that... there is a third bolt up higher too.  My partners thought it was easier than 12- but they're really strong.  I thought it's 11+ / 12-.

Where you park for Way Rambo Wall is essentially the same jumping off point for this wall.  300 yards prior to hitting the gate at the end of the road, head uphill past some cool looking rock mushrooms to the base of the wall.  Wander right until you run into some plaques at the base of several climbs.  Alienation is located in a right-facing dihedral with a blocky start.  A 7'x7' square boulder resides at the base.  From the base you can see the wide crack start 25' up (4.5") and the perfect handcrack finish about 80' up.  The wide bit is very positive with decent feet and narrows down the higher you go.  Awesome fist jams take you to the base of the handcrack.  Perfect hands to the camoflauged two bolt anchor.  It's a worthy moderate route.

A nice big hands crack in a corner with numerous small ledges on the right wall for hands and feet if you would prefer.  The rock at the top gets a little soft and loose but most of the route is solid.  A 70m rope just reaches but probably best to tie a knot in the end of your rope.

The leftmost climb on the Bioturbation Wall and well left of all the other climbs - more easily approached from Way Rambo.  Chest Full of Kind takes the right side of the obvious arch (visible from the road).

Steep & pumpy, but short.

A right facing corner with a finger splitter on the left wall and a crack in the corner.  Climb using both cracks till the left one gets to small and then continue up the corner crack with some hands sizes through a mini roof.

Hard stemming and palming crux with small gear leads to much more moderate laybacking in some questionable rock.

Crack starts with fingers and as it turns to off-width, face holds ease the difficulty.

The book calls this a stellar route and I agree.  Lots of #1 camalots.  Go up a corner then make your way out the long left traverse roof.  Just keep moving!

Amazing thin hands splitter near a corner to immaculate splitter offwidth to fists through a huge roof, finishes with more ow above the roof.

Watch Fists of Fury, you'll get the idea

This one is on somewhat softer rock, with a bit of looseness in the OW--keep a heads up! Fists to a stembox with a blocky OW into cleaner tight-hands and hands and finally a shallow stembox with a tips-fist crack.

Fingers to off fingers to .75 to thin hands to hands in a right-facing corner.  Lieback if you want but the crack is good enough to jam.

A beautiful, clean OW-squeeze in a left-facing dihedral. Brief crux over the bulge at 25'.

Start off with off fingers to tight hands with good feet. Continue up through a small roof before the angle eases and it widens to hands.

A short OW to invert roof, ends at "Chalking up Rails" anchor

Start below a slightly angling off-fingers splitter about 20' up. First couple moves are easy but on a layer of poor quality rock, start a couple feet to the right and then traverse left a bit to get to the good sandstone and up to the crack. Ring-lock and/or layback up the off-fingers splitter to a small pod at a sloping horizontal shelf, then enjoy the thin hands crack up to bolt anchors.

Start up the low angle crack in a right facing corner, then climb the flake until it thins out into a seem.  Traverse left about 5ft to the fun part, pull over the bulge on fingers continue this for a few more moves to the anchor.

start up a section of sandy rock to gain the left facing corner. hands leads to a wider section that can be laybacked then to perfect cups for the remainder of the route.

Junky easy jams lead to finger locks and tips with a subtle offset. Fight the barn door as the crack curves right and eases up.  Five bolts are obvious and lead through odd and sustained arete wrestling. It's possible to move right into the crack system above Elation and still clip a bolt or two.

Some very cool face climbing on good rock (11-ish) past two bolts get one into the left-facing dihedral, which runs from hands to tips with some very tough stemming/face climbing at the top where the crack seams up. Everything below the crux is excellent on this, but the awkward finish on crunchier rock detracts from it.

Shallow changing corners with fingers/tight-hands end with crux moves out of the crack where it pinches down to less than tips, one long reach hits the first of a series of surprising crimps that quickly turn to large flat rails as the angle rolls over. Uncharacteristic face climbing for the Creek along the now very thin crack. Unless you bring several 000 C3s, this final bit will be runout, but it's pretty mellow climbing.

At the time I wrote Creek Freak, I did not climb this route nor did I find anyone that had. Just climbed this awkward route 3/2019.

The route starts with a "ground leaving crux" to establish yourself in a wedge/flare. Climb the flare to a narrow shallow chimney with a thin fingers crack in it. At the top of said chimney the second crux is passed by exiting the chimney to a shallow right facing corner. Climb the less than vertical corner with fingers to a 2 bolt anchor on the right wall.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bioturbation Wall