Start on two small crimps (same as Back Ally Chris Cringle and Critter Cracks). Move up the face to a jug and then turn right onto the side wall of the obvious roof. Make a big move to a left hand crimp and control the swing coming up to a right hand jug on the outside corner of the roof. Top out is simple after that point.

I Don't Care About Names

Happy Cat

Dirty Hooker

X Cubed

Slot Party

Ramped Up

Skippy's Flapjack

Turbo Thrush

Escape From Alcatrez

Dime Drop

Crimp, Lock, and Pop-It

Slinky and the Slime Mold

X Squared

BiCeption

Back Alley Chris Cringle

Davis Special

Y Equals X

Green Toast

Fruit Cake

Tetris

Crescent Glide

Finger Fillet

Bad Irish Accent

Wreck Tangle

Critter Cracks

Dirt Burglar

Sit/squat start on a tinyish crimp hold. Move up to exit with Slot Party. Getting on and making the first move are the crux. Harder for taller people??

Start sitting on the ground at the base of the left leaning arete. There is a low block on the ground to your left that will make the start a bit tight. Using right hand sidepulls and left somethings (?) establish and move upward to the obvious flat jug on the arete. Then move right to exit in the dihedral, the same as the finish to Critter Cracks. Not knowing the full details, the grade is a guestimate. The name is also a placeholder until Jeff coughs one up. The beta was poached from this instagram video of Jeff B. doing the first known/recorded ascent. instagram.com/p/Bbk7AKOhBfH…

Sit start low on the overhanging arete/prow. There is an obvious jug about 4 feet off of the ground; start lower on sidepull jugs/flakes and move to the obvious flat jug. Once at the jug get situated and reach out right handed to the fantastic sloper on the lip of the overhang. It's kind of behind your head and up/out right. This is the crux. Work the foot beta and lock in so you can take the left hand off of the jug and move up to the chicken heads above the roof. This problem feels a little exposed since it sits up on a shelf. The exposure adds to the fun.

sit start, same start as "X Squared" but climb right on the rail to the false summit and topout. The crux is moving up the right leaning rail and then popping out to the slopers on the false summit

sit start, follow the obvious crack the trends left and top out through the gap between the rock and the giant tree (tree fell over and is no longer there).

Sit start at the base of an interesting ramp near the mouth of a small cave.This is the ramp/rail on the face to the left of the overhang on the small rectangular block below the center of the Balcony Rock cliff. You might try a knee-bar lock thingy to help you move your right hand up. The ground block is off if you want to copy the original ascent style.

sit start at the base of the overhang on small crimpers, use crimps out the roof to the lip pinch and then do a seriously hard mantle using slopers/crimps and no arêtes.

ss, start at the base of the overhang on small crimpers,use crimps out the roof to the lip pinch and then move to the right arete and roll up and out.

Start on the starting hold of Fruit Cake but exit the overhang immediately from the start hold by climbing left onto the face. Cruise up the ramp edge to the top.

With right hand on a crimp and left on a sloping edge, start with you feet down in a hole that goes under the boulder. Move up through a jug to a thin but very positive crimp. Get high, lock off, and pop right to a touch-and-go sloper (gaston) with a crimp jug on the far side.

sit start and climb the dihedral to the top out.

sit start on the broad rail and go straight up to the same topout as "Y equals X". The crux is getting off the ground and rocking up to the big protruding point.

It's one of those climbs with holds that don't necessarily jump out at you. It sit starts right of the broad dihedral (Slink and the Slime Mold) and climbs up through a blank face. Before the blank section below the lip of the boulder there is a left hand undercling open-handed hold. Use the undercling and some rightward lean, catch a small crimper in the face with your right hand, and then bump to the lip right handed.

sit start beneath the end of the center of the boulder. head up and rightward around the boulder.

climb the right leaning arete to the ridge and top out.

Sit start low on the left side of this small boulder and climb up on slopeyish holds. The boulder is sort of green and white.

sit start on the sloping jug (kind of blocky like fruit cake), come out the roof and arete to a nice slopey mantle using the left arete

Start sitting, grab the sharp mini jug on the right side of the overhanging face. move up to the lip, climb the slab to the top.   In the beta photo it's the yellow dotted line.

Has a nice crescent shaped rail on this slab.

sit start and climb beginning with the left hand to the left of the broad arete on a crimp. Head up to a very sharp jug.

Start on the small two hand crimp rail and move right to the jug. Swing around the corner and transition to traversing across the side wall with good hands and feet moving up the corner and topping out

Same start as Tetris but when you get to the lip of the slab traverse left and topout at the false summit, then climb the long ridgeline or slab to the top.

Start on two handed crimp (same as Back Ally Chris Cringle and Bad Irish Accent). Move left to the roof and ascend via dihedral crack. Crux involves moving off a two finger pocket to a great pinch undercling and toe hook combo that allows a big move or bumping through slopers to a jug.

practically a laydown start. Start on a crimp and a pinch, climb through more pinches and slopers until you get to the lip. Choose your own adventure from there onward.

These boulders sit around the base of Balcony Rock. See the Balcony Rock section for directions and rope route information.

Description

Protection

Routes in Balcony Rock Boulders