Realized that I never added this one. Been there for a long time though...

Can be done as two pitches, but probably better as one. It depends which way you start. Starting on Gamma Rays is probably better as two; Right Stuff (with variation) is better as one. Bolted anchor on stance to belay as 2 pitches or rap off.

Best: Start on Right stuff and move right on obvious large flake to bolted stance. Up cool tricky headwall on smallish holds to cruxy move at the apex. Great rock in this section. Continue up slabby stuff with an occasional tricky move to anchor at top of the wall.

Really enjoyed working the headwall when we first bolted it back in our little golden era...

Rocket Boys

Deep Impact

Gamma Rays in Sector C

Houston, We Have a Problem

Space Invaders

Wormhole

Look Ma...No Heatshield!

E.V.A.

Anti-Gravity

The Right Stuff Variation

Gemini

Milky Way

Dark Matter

The Right Stuff

[Redacted]

Close Encounters

Best route to access the upper pitches (currently under construction) of Rocket Boys and the unbolted project. After clipping the 4th bolt of "The Right Stuff", move right along and obvious flake to the ledge with bolts.

Marks the left side of the bulge and ends on a ramp like feature. Start on the same landing used for "Gemini" and "C.E." but head left past some looser rock. The rock clean up pretty quick though. But the climbing is only so-so. After clipping the second bolt look for some holds on the left side to get you past a steep section (very inobvious) and then follow the ramp to the top. Still a little bit dirty in the middle section.

The first couple moves on small, sharp crimps are the crux. Once you pull past the second bolt, it's 5.8/5.9 or easier to the top.

If you don't know where the holds are at the start, this route feels much harder than 5.11a. Find the right beta, though, and it's easy .11.

This route's middle section has a few feet with probably the worst rock on the wall (but really, it's not TOO bad). Luckily the holds there are huge. The line is still a bit dirty but should clean up nicely.

Perhaps the best line on the whole wall!

Steep climbing on the right side of a little tree. The second bolt is a bit hard to clip. It's a good idea to pre-hang this draw (easy when lowering off the routes to either side). If you do, it will make the start feel much easier. Small crimps, a somewhat hidden slopey pinch and some pockets lead to a really good slab. After you clip bolt #4, make a leftward shuffle (using a pocket) to a HUGE (I mean humongous!) hold and relief.

Left most line on the left side of milky way. The start is still a little loose but it getting better. The upper slab has perfect rock but the holds can be a little tricky. Don't be afraid to use the "Wormhole." A shallow 2-finger pocket to the right of the first bolt on the clean upper slab.

Best to use a hidden landing to belay from. This is just over a small rib of rock on the right side of the main landing. Steep start (one good pocket and plenty of small crimps) heads up the lower section. A mandatory small hold ("the Molar") for you left hand is really neat. The slab is great rock! Enjoy this and the steep juggy finish.

Means "space walk" in tech speak. This is the long route that marks the border of the Milky Way wall and the start of Saturn V. Begins on a high ledge that you have to scramble up the first slab of "Space Pigs A.T.A.L.S." Find some belay bolts with lowering chains at the bottom of a corner with lots of white spekles. Belay from here.

Head up the corner and the slab above passing a roof (.10b-ish) to a great upper slab.

Plenty of easy moves and good rest spots lead to a final steep pillar.

Move to the left side and look for some small holds to get started. Then move back right and make some exposed moves past a final roof to the chains.

There is a nice jug just above the chains to clip from. Lower back to the belay and then either down climb to the ground or use the chains to do a short rap. Worth doing for the position you achieve. The crux is only the last tiny bit.

This route has its own hidden landing. This is found over a little rib of rock right of the main landing. A steep  somewhat loose start (a good layback on the right helps you to clips bolt #2) with good holds and one great pocket leads to 2 mantels. From the 2nd of these, go up the steep upper section.

On the right side bulge following the obvious, short, right facing corner. Start on the left side of a big flake and make one move on smaller holds to really good jugs. There is a great jug for your left hand but it is hidden over on the far left side. Once you stand up feel over that way and you should find it. The corner has a few stemming moves and then finish on good holds with "Close Encounters." Great Warm-up and good for hanging draws on "C.E."

The first route in the entire area. Follows the obvious white streak in the middle of the left side of the wall. A little flakey here and there. Not hard, but a bit inobvious and a good warmup.

Another fantastic line!

Shares the same first clip as Milky Way but head up towards an obvious hole. Small finger jugs (a tad dirty, but cleaning up) leads to a steller steep upper headwall with small but very solid crimps.

The last real challenge (and probably the crux) is a deadpoint to a good hold near at the top. Get your feet high! When you hit this move you can't help but feel pretty darn good about yourself.

The route might be a bit over-bolted but at least you never really have to worry about taking a big fall.

The left line in the middle section of the Milky Way Wall. Long and fun. Lots of big holds and a few smaller ones thrown in for a fun fun outing! The crux seems to be right at the end. Great warm-up.

The right side of the bulge routes. Starts on a lower landing than the other routes and heads up a easy slab. The first bolt is pretty much obsolete now. Originally the route headed up the right side of this lower slab, but the moves really sucked. So we cleared some brush away and now you can do just a few easy 5.5/6 moves past big holds and jugs to get past the left side. The steep bulge is the buisness but it is over pretty quick and the route slabs out again. This steep part is pretty darn good though and if it were longer, we would consider giving it more stars.

The middle line on the bulge that forms the right side of Milky Way Wall. Stay out of the corner on the left. Use jugs to small crimps on a steep wall.

Description

Protection

Routes in Milky Way Wall