Great climbing and one of the most difficult all gear protected routes in New England. The meat of the climb is a V9ish  boulder problem at mid height  involving a series of very powerful opposing side pulls to either a long low percentage dyno ( Will C) or several more difficult face moves (Joe T) to the horizontal.  Blow the last bit before the horizontal and you'll take  a 25' - 30' lob. If the small cam pulls, a bomber offset nut will keep you off the ground.     The route tops out so the anchors are set back from the edge. Bring 6' slings if intending to TR.

Geezer Pleaser

Donny You’re Outta Your Element

Down By Law

Shut The F**k Up, Donny

Moe Howard Died For Our Sins

Barrington Hot Pocket

Luna

The Nose

Bald Man In A Boat

Flying Squirrel aka The Diagonal

Joke Book

Desperation

The Roost

Son of Snake

Swiss Movement

The Day After My Birthday ( is not my birthday mum)

Hymie's Last Stand aka  Karin's Route

The BBB route

Sicilian Olympics

Check Your Oil

And Partner Direct

Locate a bolt about twenty feet up, strategically placed below the beginning of a thin seam. The climbing here is solid 9- but requires a cool head. There is a piton just right of the climbing at head height from the ground but it would do very little for you if you fell above it trying to clip the bolt. After clipping the first bolt, thin fingers lead to a boulder problem crux and a marginal rest on a sloping ledge. From here you can escape left at 8+ or plug gear in a horizontal, step up to a lone bolt and launch into a pumpy thin fight to the chains.

The left most route on the Don Wall.Easy slab to steep face. I heard that John Goodman soloed this in work boots and a vest.

This is a  clean slab route with a desperately slippery crux. Wait for cool temps or prepare ye to slide. Bolts are a little spaced due to the scarcity of good clipping stances.

Easy slab to fun face climbing just right of the arching crack. 

Great rock and  wonderful varied climbing  easily make this one of the best of the harder lines at Stonehouse. The route starts with a difficult  sequence of underclings and crimps  past 1 pin and 3 bolts to a sit down rest . Above, climb smooth marble like stone on good edges.

Climbs steep edges and pockets to join the last two bolts on Luna. Sustained.

Sustained  crimps and slopers, long reaches and multiple cruxes. Decent rest at the undercling. Originally rated 12a in 1992, consensus seems to be 2 or 3 letter grades higher.    My apology to those sandbagged.

The obvious rounded arete that forms the center divider for the cliff.     Mostly if not all fixed gear (bolts and pins)

Locate a bolt just above small triangular roof at the base of the cliff. Pass the bolt on moderate 10- to thin cracks up to the main diagonal crack. Follow the crack switching to the higher crack mid route. The climbing here is sustained with a show stopper bouldery crux just below the last bolt. 

Start up the wide crack (wide gear not needed)in the right facing corner into a great finger crack.  Turn the lip at the top and run it a ways up a low angle corner system and easy slabs to the top.  Easier to belay someone or set a gear TR above the vertical corner.

This route was recently retro bolted and its a situation where it was well warranted. I've climbed this route pre and post bolts and having solid fixed protection does not detract from the climbing.   Start left of the BBB and climb 10 feet up to the first bolt, move up and left on thin edges and slopers to a ledge, traverse slightly left then back right on steep slopers and jugs to a strange v slot at a roof, layback around the v slot getting your feet on a small ledge below the slot, rest then move up on less than inspiring rock to the chains.

The right facing corner in the middle of Stonehouse's main face. 

  Well protected laybacking up the full length of the corner. Starts at the base of the corner, follow up on laybacks and face holds behind and above you. Belay from a tree further back, or hand sized cams just below the top. 

  A variation goes from near the top of the corner, but traverses right after the vertical step. Makes for really fun, airy moves out right on good feet, with hands in a horizontal. Good gear, good hands, and an airy feeling. Great climbing, finish as for The Nose (5.8).  

Just to the right of The Roost there is a bulge, climb over that  with no pro stopping you from hitting the ground, though you can place a cam so that you don't pull you and your belay off the ledge. Continue straight up the slab to the top of the cliff.

Climb straight up thin face holds up to some bigger ledges above.Thin sustained climbing around the corner from the Roost and the Nose. Great protection once you are on the route, a runout scramble from climber's left to reach the first bolt. Thin hands and feet until you reach the crux about 2/3 of the way up, where feet get even thinner. Dirty last couple of moves to the anchor. 

Climbs the first 3 bolts of Sicilian then heads right to the overhang. Pull the roof crux then up the steep face to rejoin Sicilian at the top.

This is a really enjoyable face climb on  positive holds.

Probably the best route on the Luna wall. The route originally climbed right at the 4th bolt into the shallow dihedral,12d. Going straight up here keeps the grade at about 12b and is more consistent with the rest of the route.

Climb to a small birch tree from the gully and launch/reach into a rail followed by sustained climbing on hidden quarts holds until it eases to the anchors.

Surprisingly fun moves and continuous climbing that is in character with the other routes on the wall. Start slightly right of the first bolt in a short diagonal groove. Move left up the groove and then straight up the face to a rest in the bottom of the crack of Flying Squirrel. From there, continue up to a horizontal and then slightly right up face holds to a short deadpoint crux and another horizontal. The final few moves are easier but not a giveaway.

Stonehouse is arguably the most impressive of the little cliffs in southeastern NH. Situated on the shore of a beautiful clear pond, it is remarkable for this part of the state. There are a good range of routes from 5.5 - 5.13d including 15 bolted routes. The cliff is composed of pegmatitic granite and is about 100' at its tallest. It generally faces east and northeast making it a good afternoon destination in hot weather. There's also a great swimming hole along the access trail.

 ATTENTION: The cliff and the surrounding 241 acres was purchased in 2010 by the Trust for Public Land, Strafford Rivers Conservancy, New Hampshire Fish and Game, the Town of Barrington and other partners. The conservation of this land is the result of years of hard work. After decades of access issues this has been a gift to all who value this natural resource. Remember, this could just as easily have been a housing development. Please treat the area with respect and do your part to keep it clean. Pack out all of your trash. Better yet, make the extra effort and pack out what others have left behind. Answer nature's call far from the shores of the pond and trails and bury any human waste.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Stonehouse Pond