Sharp thin sidepulls with no feet lead to some long reaches and eventually a huge incut jug.  Smith and Zimmerman (1970) recommend leaping to the jug from the top of the First Step - not for the fainthearted! 

  Doing the leap is probably easier (technically) than climbing from the ground up.

Short Man's Anguish

Half step

First Step East Face

Two-step

First Step West Corner

Stump Crack

Third Step

First Step West Face

Scramble and mantle on ledges, right of the pine tree (on the North side of the East face, toward Birthday Rocks). 

  We used this as the descent route.

Climb lower crack to upper wide crack to top.

A very thin crack with some juggy steps that are just far enough apart to be interesting.  Harder and more intricate than it looks!

Up the crack and squirm around to the right, then up to the summit.

Beside the stumpy rock pillar, follow the fist crack.  You could start either left or right of the stumpy pillar. 

  (In Smith & Zimmerman, this is the "NW Corner".)

Up the wide crack behind the pine limb, then straight up the final face. 

  You can skip the final face by squirming to the right - easier.

Just how difficult you make this face depends on how strictly you stay away from the West (right) Corner.

Visible in the boulderfield below Horse Rampart, this rib of rock is more visited by hikers scrambling than by climbers.  The three steps of Lothar's Ledges provide a rare opportunity to do a "multipitch" linkup at the Lake.  Like Turk's Head ridge, most variations are easy, but those who are really determined can find a harder linkup here. 

  Named for Lothar Kolbig, a CMCer active in the 1940s and 50s.  This area is partially documented in Smith & Zimmerman (1970).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 7.2.3 - Lothar's Ledges