A classic climb rich in history. Equipment Overhang is roughly in the center of the main wall and easily spotted by its canopy roof. Fun crack climbing leads to a good, tough face climbing protected by a bolt. Climbing up and over the roof is much easier than it looks. but once you pull the roof get ready for some standard LCC flared excitement. It's a great route, is well protected, but it is very sustained, and the finish isn't exactly easy. At least half of this route is good, hard 5.10 climbing

Equipment Overhang

Satan's Nook

Half-A-Finger

Satan's Corner

Stem the Tide

Premature

Lisa's Shoulder

Motor Skills

Incubator

Black and White John and Mary

Core Shot

Equipment Overhang Right

Fallen Angel Variation

The dihedral just right of

Half-a-Finger

, is

Black and White John and Mary.

The start is typically wet and is a rarely climbed 5.11 variation.  Otherwise start left of the dihedral on a flake, and work into the dihedral above the moisture.  Continue on up the dihedral with pumpy lie-backs, and fun stems.

There is a direct finish to

Black and White

which was added by Doug Heinrich sometime around 2002. Its about 11b, but the gear is there. The original finish (5.10) cuts left to the

Half-A-Finger

belay

This route starts one crack to the left of the main crack of

Satan's Corner

. A fun crack, just not quite as fun, where Satan's (original) begs to be jammed, this begs to be laid back.  If you have done the original give this one a go.  The book says 5.6, I felt it was more of a good 5.7

Half-A-Finger is a unique thin crack with 3 cruxes, and rests in between. Near the left side of the dihedrals area, look for a small pinnacle (the finger) up about 70 feet.  This is the route.  Start in a corner with no crack (but pro is available).  Continue through two bulges with a finger crack. These are the first two cruxes.  End the pitch by awkwardly squeezing up the finger with double hand cracks (third crux).  I believe another variation avoids the awkward topout and climbs the face on the left.

Rap with one rope from fixed chain anchors.

Super classic jam crack.  Stout for 5.8, and gear can be a little strenuous to place at times.  Start in the same spot as Beckey's Wall.  Satan's Corner can be done in 1 or 2 pitches, but I'd recommend doing it in a single pitch.  Fairly sustained, both pitches are 5.8.

P1) Climb the vertical hand jam crack on the wall left of Beckey's Wall.  The crux comes at a spot where the crack is too wide for easy foot jamming.  Belay at a good sized ledge with a hand sized crack for setting an anchor.

P2) Climb a short easy crack, then step over to a ledge.  Then hand jam up a steep and exposed flake, with some delicate moves required.  Continue up to a fixed pin, then hand traverse left on jugs to the anchors (same anchors as Lisa's Shoulder).

Descent) Rap 100' down the dihedral back to the base.  A 50 meter rope would probably only reach the ledge a little higher with some easy downclimbing.

Just left of Satan's Corner is a dihedral with three bolts.  This climb forces you to stem almost the entire way up this near vertical line.  The stems are mouth-watering and wide, the holds are nearly non-existent, and the fall potential is long.  I would almost say this is better than Satan's.

Left of Incubator is a line of dirt filled, bottoming flakes. This line has most likely been climbed, though I don't know why we did or anyone else would have.

The route was prematurely birthed when I left the ground without the proper gear. I also prematurely thought that it looked slabby and 5.easy. The angle of the wall can be a bit deceiving.

If this has a previous ascent/name, please comment and I will change the information.

Lisa's Shoulder is the first major dihedral left of Satan's Corner.  It is a fun gear-protected face climb.  It is given a R in the guidebooks, but protection can be found to make it reasonably safe.  Probably the most dangerous part of the route can be avoided.  The first part of the climb is a dihedral without a crack.  Instead, start by climbing up a difficult bulging hand crack just to the left which is about 10 feet long.  Then pull up through bulges on the face to the start of a thin seam.  Climb up this seam placing small cams and clipping a bolt.  This face is thin with good feet.  Then finish up the airy arete right for 15' to the anchor.

Rap with one rope off of the chain anchors.

Climb the majority of Equipment Overhang Right, then bust straight right out the stout undercling flake while clipping three bolts. Once to the arete, regroup and mosey up the easy but runout finish of Lisa's shoulder for another fifty feet.

A draw hanging onsight will be a rather stout 12a experience, even for LCC.

Thin edge pulling and contorted movement on old bolts lead to a good chicken head and a crux boulder problem. This line packs in a bone-hard 12c grade into only 25 feet. The first two/three bolts have

older(?)

SMC hangers, and are quite corroded. They didn't really inspire confidence, but make your own decisions.

Hard, awkward moves in a slightly overhanging dihedral. The first bolt is high, but it's easy climbing up to there with a long reach off good holds to clip the first draw. I stuck a #3 camalot in the crack to the right to give me a little peace of mind.

This climbs up the right side of the obvious overhang in the middle of the wall.  It stays consistent most of the way. It starts with a wide crack that thins out to some face climbing (crux).

It then works the arete a bit and back into the crack just right of the overhang. The crack above the overhang is a blast, as is the face finish.

The crux is very delicate and is protected with brass, so be careful.  However, IMO, it was not runout like the book claims.

If you've climbed Satan's Corner (5.8, G. Lowe, E. Anderson) before and happen to find yourself back at the Dihedrals, why not give the Fallen Angel Variation a go?  Don't be too overwhelmed by its 'R' rating in the Ruckman guide; if you're solid at the grade, don't miss the opportunity to experience a bit of old-school boldness!  Climb the first pitch of Satan's Corner, then continue up and right along flakes and a discontinuous crack to reach the top of the wall.  The gear leading up to the 'R' section is solid, and the fall clean.

Description

Protection

Routes in Dihedrals Area